Nepal Rivers - Kali Gandaki

October 21^st – 23^rd – Kali Gandaki River:

I went with Paddle Nepal again for the Kali Gandaki river. I have previously done this river with NOC back in 1997. However, at that time it was a 5 day trip, and since then a dam has been built, shortening the trip to 3 days. This is a class III river with a good amount of water, making for great wave trains! This was a great warm-up river to get myself ready for the bigger river finale of either the Karnali or the Tamur. There was a photo boater on this trip, so there are many photos of me boating.

The next generation of a kayaker:

The put-in for the Kali Gandaki:

Day 1
Started off the 1^st day with 2 big rapids…Little Brother:

...and Big Brother:

Day 2

Temple along the river:

More fun big water!!

Day 3:

Morning at camp along the river:

Heather, who I was thatnkful to follow and showed me all the good lines:

Almost got sucked back into this one (unknown named rapid)…

It was a 3 hour drive back to Pokhara from the river’s take-out. We stopped for tea break and snacks at a typical town along the way home:

Nepal Rivers - Lower Seti

October 18^th - 19^th Lower Seti River:

I headed to Pokhara to begin my river portion of the trip. I had planned to run the Trisuli River, however after taking a look at it during the bus ride from Kathmandu, it did not look like that much fun (lots of flat water). So I decided to skip it and move onto the next warm-up river, the Lower Seti. I was able to rent my boating gear from Charly at Ganesh Kayaks in Pokhara. Charly is an incredibly helpful guy and has a great selection of boats and even had a bent shaft paddle for me and a brand new spray skirt to use. So I can highly recommend Ganesh Kayaks if you ever find yourself in Pokhara and in need of boating gear and river beta.

I went along with the rafting company - Paddle Nepal’s trip. Luckily, there were 3 other kayakers on the trip, so I was able to enjoy the company of fellow boaters. It was nice to paddle in warm water!! This was an easy class II/III river andis done in 2 days, so we camped out on the river one night.

Waterfall all the Seti:

Nepal Trek: Day 17

October 10^th – Namche Bazaar to Lukla to Kathmandu:

We made our way back to Lukla in one day, as opposed to the 2 days it took in the opposite direction. Along the way we passed many trekking groups and porters loaded with their gear. I was amazed at the amount of people (many of them were of the retired folks age) that were making the trip to Everest Base Camp. Hats off to them and hope that I am still exploring at that age!!

The porters' heavy loads:

Family working the fields before reaching Lukla:

Below are some statistics of how tourism was affected by the political changes in Nepal, including the massacre of the King in 2001 and the Maoist war for power afterwards. But as you can see, the tourist have since returned in big numbers.

Instead of spending the night in Lukla and deal with the chaos of the crowded morning flights, I decided to take a return flight back to Kathmandu that afternoon. There were only 3 of us on the plane, so it was a nice and easy trip back!

Landing in Kathmandu:

Nepal Trek: Day 16

October 9^th – Thanygboche to Namche Bazaar:

Started the day at the monesatry for the monk's morning prayers,  an apple pancake at the guest house and then the hike down to Namche.
One last view of the Himalayas:

The vendors in Namche now sell outdoor gear in case you forgot to bring anything from home. There is even a Mountain Hardware store and a Sherpa store…with Western prices. (No Nepal discount here!)
The Mountain Hardware store in Namche:

But you can still get your various tourist buys, such as jewelry, singing bowls, bags and yak bells.

Nepal Trek: Day 15

October 9^th –Chhuchung to Thayngboche:

15,518ft/4730m to 12,687ft/3867m

I woke early and started up Chhukhung Ri. It was a tough climb up today…reaching that 15,000ft threshold.

Ama Dablam ice fall:

Ama Dablam Peak:

The village of Chhukung:

After the climb up Chhukhung Ri, I headed down to Thayngboche.

Nepal Trek: Day 14

October 7^th – Dingboche to Chhukhung:

14,272ft/4350m to 15,518ft/4730m (2 hours hiking)

Short day hiking up to Chhukung. The clouds are back today, so I will wait for tomorrow to hike up Chhukhung Ri. Instead I took the afternoon to hike up to Island Peak basecamp. Or I went just until I reached the basecamp and then headed up the morraine. From there I enjoyed the amazing views of the mountains and glacier lake – Imja Tsho and sat there for 1 1/2 hours enjoying the quietness of the mountains with the occasional interruption from the sound of rocks tumbling down into the water of the lake.

Porters heading up on the trail to Island Peak base camp:

 Mani wall:

Glacier lake – Imja Tsho at Island Peak base camp:

Nepal Trek: Day 13

October 6^th – Gorak Shep to Dingboche:

17,008ft/5184m to 14,272ft/4350m (6 1/2 hrs hiking)

Started the day watching the sun rising behind Nuptse and shining on Pumo Ri. I decided to spend the night in Gorek Shep for the morning mountains and was so happy that I did!!
This was an easy day hike down the Khumbu valley to Dingboche. Clear skies again, I think the monsoon season is finally finished.
Ran into a number of other trekkers that I had met throughout the trip, and was nice to say hellos and goodbyes to these new friends.

One last good yak train:

I came across a wonderful tea shop and had to stop and have tea, even though I just stopped for my morning teabreak 1 hour before.

Local woman along the trail:

Stupa above Dingboche:

Moon above Ama Dablam:

Nepal Trek: Day 12

Oct 5^th – Lobuche to Gorak Shep:

16,175ft/4930m – 17,008ft/5184m

Had a short 2 hr hike to Gorak Shep, which is the last village before Everest Base Camp. We had clear skies all day. The idea was to hike to Gorak Shep and if the views were good of Everest, I would climb up Kala Pattar and then return to Lobuche. If the clouds were obstructing Everest, then I would stay the night in Gorak Shep in hopes the next morning would offer clear views. When I arrived, the views were great and no clouds, so I decided to do the climb…because you just do not know when the clouds will come back.

So after a short break of tea, I headed up Kala Pattar (18,448ft/5623m). Jeez my legs were moving slowly. I thought that after a good couple of days of hard trekking my legs would be a bit stronger, but I was finally feeling effects of the altitude. Nuptse was looming large to my right and Pumo Ri  just as large and straight ahead. About halfway up, Everest was becoming visible from behind Nuptse. The Khumbu glacier extended all the way down the valley where I could see Ama Dablam, and further were the peaks of South Kangtega and Thamserku. Along the way I saw an avalanche and was surprised on how loud it was from that distance.

Once I reached the top, I can not believe how clear and amazing views are in all directions. I felt incredibly lucky today!!

Pumo Ri:

Everest!!

Everest and the Khumbu ice flow:

Views to the south – Khumbu glacier, Ama Dablam, and further are South Kangtega and Thamserku:

On top of the world:

Nepal Trek: Day 11

October 4th  - Cho La Pass

Thangnak - Cho La Pass - Lobuche (9 hours hike)
15,387ft/4690m - 17,782ft/5420m -  16,175ft/4930m

This was a long day! Woke early to clear skies and got started on the trail and make the pass before the clouds arrive. We left about 6:15 and had clear skies and great views all morning. We hit the first  the snow at the base of Cho La on the rocks approaching the climb up. The path zig-zagged up over snow covered rocks...luckily they were not icey yet. We made great time and got up on the pass at 9:30 - just before the clouds came in. The views of Cho La and Kangchung peaks to the north and Lobuche peak to the east...Everest was visible, but quickly disappeared behind the clouds.
There was a steep bit after the pass to get down, but not nearly as tricky as I was expecting based on talk from the other trekkers. And then crossed a snow field before the descent over snow covered rocks into the valley towards Dzonglha.
We made good time, so decided to stop for tea in Dzonglha and then continue on to Lobuche.

Half way up to the pass and looking back down towards Thagnak and the Ngozumpa glacier:

Approacing the top of Cho La:

Takashi & Paulina arrive for photos at the top of Cho La pass:

 Snow field on the East side:

Tea & dal soup stop in Dzonglha with Cholatse so close behind:

I decided not to stay in Dzonglha and continued towards Lobuche. This part of the trail was easy, passing through wildflowers with Ama Dablam in full view in front until we reached the Khumbu valley to head north towards Everest…which was still hidden behind the clouds.

At night a group of us from the guest house enjoyed a treat of stars and moonlight reflecting off Nuptse. The nights have been so cloudy, and this was the first good moon I have seen in a while. Picture to come soon from a fellow trekker with a much better camera than I have with me.