Vwaza Marsh Wilderness Reserve

Vwaza Marsh Wilderness Reserve – August 26th-27th, 2006

I went up to the northern region on VSO business for this last weekend in August. I had a meeting at the Mzuzu University to meet the IT Dept to determine if I will take on a 2nd short-term placement here in Malawi through VSO. The visit went well enough that I have decided to accept this placement and will be here an additional 3 months! So I will finish with the Nurses and Midwives Council the end of October and begin with the Mzuzu U the beginning of November.

And…never to let a trip out of Lilongwe go to waste, I also visited the Vwasa Marsh Wilderness Reserve with a few other volunteers. Vwaza is located about 2 hr drive northwest from Mzuzu (Mzuzu is located about 4 hr drive north from Lilongwe). The camp we stayed in at the reserve is made up of a number of huts that overlook a watering hole. Luckily these huts were made of ‘elephant proof’ twigs to protect us from the number of elephants that live here in the reserve. As we arrived at the camp on Saturday and started to eat lunch, a family of elephants came through the clearing and to the watering hole. It was a good sign that we would see some wildlife!!


The group:



View of Elephants from the huts (Hippos in background):








We went for a driving safari in the late afternoon and did not see much for the 1st hr. Then suddenly we came across a family of elephants. The elephants just took a slight detour around us as stayed put and we were able to enjoy seeing the group so close!
What we saw on our driving safari: ELEPHANTS :)












The next morning we went on a walking safari which was great. You feel a bit vulnerable as you are walking, knowing that there are huge animals all about you… but we had a guide (with a rifle) to lead us on our walk. Surprisingly, that did make us feel a bit safer.
What we saw on our walking safari: Lots of HIPPOS :)
Hippos foot print:















Our trusty guide:



Other sights:





After our walking safari and enjoying the sight of many hippos, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast as we had been walking for a couple hours. We were packed up and ready to go, when heard some crashing about in the bush behind our hut. One of the staff came to tell us that the elephants came back – but a little closer this time!! We could not see them, but could definitely hear them. These are very destructive animals, tearing down branches and trees as they forge their own path while strolling through the bush.
We were able to catch the elephants at the bridge just outside of the reserve and got a great view of them, as well as a very young one. And there was also one adolescent that we enjoyed watching as he was digging up and what looked to be playing around in the mud. After he saw that he was being left behind by the group, he ‘ran’ to catch up - which was a change from the slow and steady pace of the group.








I’m still waiting for the giraffes!!!!

Cape Maclear

Cape Maclear

Cape Maclear is a situated on the Nankumba Peninsula at the far southern part of Lake Malawi. I was meeting another volunteer, Yvonne, who arrived in country at the same time as myself and is living in Blantyre. During that first week in Malawi, we decided that we would meet up at Cape Maclear and kayak around the 2 islands Thumbi and Domwe just off the coast.
As we headed out of Lilongwe town we pass by the ‘tire market’. This is an open area just along the road where used tires are sold - and there are rows and rows of neatly stacked used tires in all sizes for sale. I am constantly amazed at the resourcefulness of the people here. They see a need and will set up shop along side the rode – from car mechanics, plumbers, electricians, telephone bureaus…to used tires. Interesting to see, but since our tires were fine we continued on south towards Dedza on the M1. I have been on this section of road many times now and I still enjoy seeing the mountains around Dedza. Just before we reached Dedze we took a turn off the M1 and before we descended off the plateau we had a great view of the lake and spotted the mountains on the peninsula in the far distance.
Fast forward to the Cape. (saw more baboons on the road just before Cape Maclear )
Cape Maclear is a long stretch of beach along the northern tip of a peninsula. There is an actual and active village Chembe Village at Cape Maclear. The houses are located right on the beach alongside a number of little lodges. We stayed at a place called Fat Monkeys at one end of the village, so it was a little quieter than some of the other places. Since the menu did not include fish that evening, I bought a fish off a local fisherman, had the kitchen staff cook it up and enjoyed fresh fish with a few Greens watching a beautiful sunset with friends. Note – Cape Maclear is one of the few places that you can see the sunset on the lake in Malawi, as most of the other Malawi beaches face east, giving you great sunrises but no sunset over the lake. So the sunset here was real treat!! Note 2 – The local brewery here in Malawi sells a heavy beer with a brown label and a lighter beer with a green label. So when you order your beer you ask for either a ‘Brown’ or a ‘Green’. I take mine green.

That next morning we walked down to Kayak Africa to rent the kayaks for the day. The fella there drew us a map of the island and all the good snorkeling spots. Lake Malawi is filled with fish that are specific only to this area. You will not see these fish living and swimming anywhere else in the world! So with lunch, snorkel stuff and kayak we headed off for a day of paddling around the island and snorkeling in a number of sweet spots. Oh it was good to sit in a boat again with paddle in hand!!

A few specifics on this area…
1. Much, if not all, of Cape Maclear is located within Lake Malawi National Park, the first freshwater underwater national park in the world.
2. Lake Malawi is the 4th deepest in the world, deepest depth in lake is 2,300ft; is the 11th largest lake in the world, and the 3rd largest in Africa.
3. Livingstone’s 1st missionary was built at Cape Maclear. However malaria forced the silly white folks to move on to higher ground.



Beach at Cape Maclear:




Sunset over Mumbu Island:




Looking back at Cape Maclear from Thumbi Island:




Kayaking and snorkeling around Thumbi Island:












View down on Cape Maclear and Thumbi Island: