Thursday, November 16, 2006

Commerce and Advertising in Africa

Businesses and Advertising in Malawi

As I have traveled through Malawi I have seen some very interesting store fronts and business signs. Below is a collection of the photos that best represent this part of life here in Malawi. I hope to be adding more photos as I come across new ones, so visit this post again.

Highway sign on the road to Mzuzu:



Highway sign on the road to Zomba:



Competition is tough between the telephone bureaus. Here is my favorite that is located in Mzuzu:




Food vendor in Cape Maclear:




Two of the major supermarkets in Malawi. These are in Dedza:






Internet cafes can be found almost everywhere these days. This one is in Ntcheu:




There is a University of Vancouver – Malawi campus:



And my favorite sign comes from Lusaka, Zambia:

Sunday, November 05, 2006

The Zambezi River and Victoria Falls, Zambia

The Zambezi & Victoria Falls – Sept. 28th – Oct. 4th

I have wanted to go to the Zambezi River and Victoria Falls in Zambia ever since I started kayaking. The mighty Zambezi just beckons any and all whitewater enthusiasts. And for various reasons, I have had to cancel this trip twice since I arrived here in Africa – which turned out to be good because the time of year I went was the best time for running the river!

It took me 2 days to get from Lilongwe to Livingstone, Zambia by road and is quite an ordeal. First I took a 1 ½ hour mini-bus ride from Lilongwe to Mchinji, taxi to the Malawi-Zambia border, taxi to Chipata in Zambia, then an 8 hour bus ride to Lusaka. I spent the 1st night in Lusaka. Then up early the next morning for a 6 hour bus ride to Livingstone (which is the town on the Zambian side of the Zambezi River and Victoria Falls). I was so happy to arrive at my destination of Livingstone and it was just a short walk up to the Jollyboys Backpackers. This is a great and popular place to stay with loads of other travelers providing good company and great stories over beers!

I find it so very interesting how a river can bring people together. That first evening in Livingstone, I ran into a few folks that I know from home who were also staying at Jollyboys. Scott and Heidi, who I know from Colorado, were in Africa on their honeymoon. And it was such a great surprise to see them on my first night in Livingstone. The next morning we all went off to do the bungee jump together before they flew out …however I ended up being the only one to jump?!? Then I ran into a fellow raft guide- Justin, whom I worked with on the Chattooga River back in my NOC days. It is funny that I had been in Africa for 8 months and had not met one person I knew, and then within 2 hours I meet these folks from home. And it was great to hang out with some river loving folks!!!!

There are so many ways to spend your money on fun activities at Victoria Falls. You can book pretty much everything through Jollyboys. As I mentioned before, I did a bungee jump over the Zambezi River – fantastic views to enjoy as you are about to leap off, and hopefully bounce back, the Victoria Falls Bridge (111m/364ft). This is the second highest in the world, the first being the Bloukrans River Bridge in South Africa (216m/708ft) which was my first bungee jump a few years back. I think I should continue on with this pattern and so I ask you “Where is the 3rd highest bungee jump in the world??”
Next I went on a raft trip down the Zambezi – which is the main reason why I spent the 2 days on a bus  The River did not disappoint…the rapids where huge and impressive. Our raft flipped twice, but it is a pretty safe river with just big white fluffy water - no rocks or undercuts to worry about. Unfortunately I do not have any photos of the river trip…but just picture the biggest whitewater you have ever seen, add a raft and me sitting in it with a bit ole smile on my face – and you now have a picture of my favorite day in Africa 
The water level this time of year is pretty low, which make the rapids on the river great, but the falls themselves were not full flowing and therefore not visible from the Zambian side. Instead of paying lots to view the Falls from the Zimbabwean side, I decided to experience the Falls up close and personal. With a recommendation from Scott and Heidi, I took a boat to Livingstone Island, which is located in the middle of the Zambezi River and ends at the edge of Victoria Falls. From the island you jump into this small pool located right at the edge and right next to the water flowing over. Then you get to lay on the edge and peak over to see the water dropping down into the gorge – what an awesome view of Victoria Falls. I think this is the best way to see the falls!

Hope you enjoy these photos:

Getting ready for the big JUMP. Check out the sign posted behind me on the bridge.



On the edge…



The Jump…





View of the Victoria Falls Bridge:



Rafters hitting the first rapid on the Zambezi River:



View of Victoria Falls from the Zambian side:



During wetter months, the falls extend all along this right side.



On the edge of Victoria Falls from Livingstone Island:



View of Victoria Falls from Livingstone Island:



Me on Livingstone Island:



And I finally got to see my giraffes:

Wednesday, November 01, 2006

Gule Wankulu

Nyua Dances by the Gule Wankulus or ‘Supreme Dancers’– September 10th, 2006

I finally had an opportunity to experience a slice of local culture. Mrs Juma, a colleague of mine from the Nurses and Midwives Council, invited me to her home village Kamadzu (meaning Small Water) to view a special ceremony. The day was to commemorate the unveiling of a tombstone for a villager that had recently passed away. The actual ‘unveiling’ and feast were in the morning and for family members and close friends. In the afternoon, the entire village was invited to take part in the 2nd part of the ceremony - the Nyua dances, and this was the part I was able to experience.

As we walk into the village I could immediately feel all eyes on me, as I was the only mzungu in the crowd. There is absolutely no way to blend in here in Africa!
The village chief came up to introduce himself and invited us to sit in the special area… the VIP seats. I felt uneasy about this and was happy to stand in the crowd, but Mrs . Juma accepted, which ended up being a good call on her part, as the crowd grew quite large and I would not have been able to see a thing.
So sitting in our VIP seats I spotted one of my night guards, Mr. Masauko also in the VIP area as he is a chief of a neighboring village. It was good to see him in his own element and enjoying himself.

Soon the dancers were lined up and vying for position to be in the front of the line.
These local Nyua dances, are also known as the Gule Wankulu or masked dances of Malawi. These dances have roots from the Chewa culture, and had more significance in the recent past, but now seem to simply provide entertainment at such functions. I could not get any clear explanation of these dancers, not even Mrs. Juma knew the details of these masked dancers - other than they are a secretive group of non-Christian dancers. Her nephew explained that because it is secretive, he was not able to tell me any more. I guess ‘It’s a cultural thing…I wouldn’t understand’. Fair enough!
Hope you enjoy these photos!

First the women came out for a song and dance:








Then the Gulewankulus came into the circle to perform for the crowd and for money:












The drummers create the beat for the dancers as the women sing ‘backup’.