Saturday, August 19, 2006

Turnin' 40!

Turnin’ 40 in Africa

As many of you know, I was hoping to spend my birthday on the peak of Kilimanjaro - however it didn’t happen. I just could not justify the cost of flying up to Tanzania for one week to do this short trip, and the other alternative -taking off 1 month from my project to do everything I want to do while in Tanzania, was not possible. So, I have decided to postpone my Tanzania trip until the end of my stay here in Africa. Sometimes this getting wiser as we get older does not work out so great!

For a second choice, I stayed closer to home and went to the Zomba Plateau here in Malawi. I had heard a lot of good things about this area and it was one of the top of my ‘must sees’ in Malawi. The Zomba Plateau is in the southern part of Malawi and the town of Zomba is located at the base of the plateau. During the time the British governed Malawi, the capital was located in Zomba. Then after independence it was moved to Lilongwe in 1975.

We left Lilongwe and drove down on Sat, arriving in the afternoon with enough time to do a short hike up the creek to William Falls and then on to the Emperor’s View overlook. The falls are not marked with any Chichewa name??? As we headed towards the overlook we passed through a meadow with lots of baboons running about and hootin it up – I am not sure if they were warning us to keep our distance or warning the other baboons in the area about our presence. I must tell you, it is such a great experience to see all the different wildlife here. I’m still looking for the giraffes though…perhaps in Zambia. It is unfortunate that Malawi does not have the big game that you find in other African countries as most have been poached long ago and the populations have never returned.

At the overlook there were some boys selling crystals that they had dug out of Malosa Mountain, a mountain that is located on the plateau. As a b-day present to myself, I bought one :)

The creek/falls:



Baboons:



That evening I was treated to a delicious meal at the Chewa Hotel. It is a posh hotel that is perched high on top of the plateau overlooking the town of Zomba. Afterwards we headed back to where we could afford to stay on our volunteer’s salary - the Trout Farm, where they had a big fire awaiting us and we enjoyed wine, brownies with local strawberries around the fire…YUM! Birthdays are great!


The Trout Farm:



Birthday Brownies:




Birthday celebration (Georgann, this photo is for you):




The next day we headed off to the peak of the Zomba Plateau and enjoyed views of the surrounding mountains and we could even see the Mulanje Plateau to our south. We passed more monkeys along the ridge.

On the top of the plateau:




So for my birthday I had water (the creek), mountains (the Zomba Plateau) and brownies (chocolate). I must say…it was a good way to spend my birthday! But it is not over yet, I plan on celebrating throughout the year. And since I did not make it up to Kilimanjaro, I will just have to wait until my placement is completed and I start my journeys around Africa to hike to the top of Kilimanjaro.
Yes, I have decided that I will stay here in Africa to travel for the duration of the 3 months after my placement. There is just so much to see here and 3 months is not even enough time to go to all the places I want to on this huge continent.
And thank you for all the wonderful birthday greetings!

My family surprised me with a pre-birthday celebration in Richmond, Va I left for Malawi in Feb. It was a wonderful surprise! :

Thursday, August 03, 2006

Dzalanyama Part 2

Dazalanyama Part 2-
Two weeks after my first visit to Dazalanyama Lodge a friend from the UK was in town working on a forestry project and wanted to go hiking. “I have the perfect place” I tell him. So off we go back to the Dazalanyama Mountains.

The roads here in Malawi are mainly used by people on foot or bike. I have yet to drive a car here, but it seems to be a bit stressful with all this other traffic on the roads. You have people everywhere…along side the road as well as on the road, and carrying all sorts of stuff. You name it, someone is carrying it. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get too many photos because it has just impossible in a moving car. But I will keep trying!

We brought our mountain bikes with us and before we make the final turn off to the lodge I spot a bike repair shop and had this great idea…lets get one of these guys to fix the brakes on one of the bikes. (Well, it seemed like a good idea at the time.) We unload the bike from the car and ask if they can adjust the brakes – they quickly answer “Yes madame.” So I handed over the bike into the hands of these professional bike repairmen. After a long while he hands over the bike to me as ‘fixed. The brakes are so well adjusted that the front wheel does not even turn! So I give the bike back to him, said thanks but asked him to try again. Next thing I know a hacksaw has been brought out, is in hand and being used to cut the brake cable. Oh now this is something I haven’t seen before… I quickly realize that this was not one of my better ideas. After some time, the bike is returned, and in worse shape than when we arrived. We decide to take the bike before any more damage is done and fix it ourselves at the lodge. Nice try!

Bike shop:




The bike tools used in Malawi:




We arrive at the lodge, Richard fixes the brakes on his bike and we are off for a quick bike ride in search of the waterfalls about 10 km away. We make it as far as the footpath to the waterfalls that are at least a 15 min walk, with the sun quickly falling behind the mountains. We decide to pass on the falls and head back to the lodge before nightfall.


The next day we head off to Mozambique to hike to the top of Khamande Mt.

On the Mozambique/Malawi border:




Our destination:




Getting Directions from the Mozambique locals:




The top of Khamande with southern view of Mozambique:




Me and our guide Lucius:




Scene from Africa - Drivin home: